Gyeonghuigung - a palace of water and prayers

The modern view of Gyeonghui Palace 132 years after Landor's visit. Still searching for rain. Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

Not everyone who rode a donkey was able to influence the weather. Robert Neff Collection

Although Henry Savage Landor found Gyeonghui Palace intriguing with its tales of ghosts and occasional sightings of leopards and tigers, he did not find it to be a Palace of Serene Harmony. In fact, he found it deafening as he and his hosts, the Greathouses, were subjected to the "most diabolical noises" made by "several men and numberless children" as they beat on huge drums and shouted as loud as they could whilst praying for rain.

In his book, Landor wrote:

"From sunrise until sunset this goes on, unless some stranded cloud happens to appear on the horizon, when the credit of such a phenomenon is awarded to their diabolical howls, and cash subtracted from landed proprietors as a reward for their having called the attention of the weather-clerk."

The weather clerk, or astrologer, was a "spectacled wise-man" who rode through the streets of Seoul upon a donkey. He was surrounded by a mob of believers who carried banners and lanterns and extolled his wondrous powers. As he passed through the streets, his entourage grew as the curious tagged along to witness his domination of the elements.

It takes a little bit of searching to find Yeongyeolcheon. Robert Neff Collection

Once he arrived at the appointed holy spot ― near the palace ― he dismounted the high saddle of his donkey and, with the aid of his servants, walked to the spot in which he would challenge the elements of nature.

"When rain is to be summoned, our astrologer addresses his first reproaches to the sun, stretching out his hands and using the strongest of invectives, after which, when he has worked himself into a towering rage against the orb of day, an execrable beating on the drums begins, accompanied by the howling of all the people present. The god of rain gets his share of insults, and is severely reprimanded for the casual way in which he carries on his business, and so, partly with good, partly with bad manners …"

According to Landor, this summoning for rain went on day after day and he declared "the noise they made was of so wild a nature as to drive one crazy." He was told that the ceremonies would go on until the rain eventually fell. We know from Greathouse's mother's diary that Landor left Seoul on April 2 and the first light rain fell on the night of April 19. For the Westerners in the Jeongdong area, Korea was not the Land of the Morning Calm.

The realization of Yeongyeolcheon did not match its reputation nor my expectations. Robert Neff Collection

The Gyeonghui Palace compound had several small springs and even now two can be found ― although they are no longer as regal as they had been in the past. To the west of the palace is Yeongyeolcheon (also known as Chojeong ― or sparkling fountain) which was once famed for its extremely cold and abundant water. Even in the most severe droughts, this stream could be depended upon to supply the palace with water.

King Seonjo (r. 1567-1608) often came to this stream for inspiration and he is credited with having the name of the stream carved into the stone above its source.

The other stream, Amcheon, is located at the base of Seoam ― a large stone behind Taeryeongjeon Hall where the portraits of King Yeongjo (r. 1724-1776) are stored. As with the other stream, the passage of time and progress has reduced this pristine fountain to nothing more than a trickle.

Some of the stones behind Taeryeongjeon Hall. Robert Neff Collection

While water was once fairly abundant in the palace compound, it was guarded carefully by the spirits. Those who tried to harvest the water were dealt with swiftly ― usually with their lives.

In the 1880s, a geomancer, known for his unerring ability to find water, was challenged to find a suitable site for a well on the palace grounds. Although it is not indicated as to why a well was needed, it was possibly related to the mulberry orchard that had been planted by the Korean government under the supervision of Augustine Maertens.

The source of Amcheon Stream. Only the stone channel and the lush greenery give evidence of its former glory. Robert Neff Collection

The geomancer, fully aware of the dangers he faced, reluctantly agreed. Prior to beginning his task, he informed those around him that he would die from his success. Within a short time, he indicated a spot and a well was quickly dug, revealing a fine spring of water. Almost immediately, the geomancer became ill and within days, he succumbed. The guardians had exacted their revenge.

However, the guardians of the present are not as powerful as the guardians of the past and, sadly, I fear there will soon come a time when the natural springs of Gyeonghui Palace are no more.

The bane of the fire gods at Gyeonghui Palace. Robert Neff Collection

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.