Beer arrives in 19th-century Joseon

A Korean villager aboard an American warship in 1871 / Photo by Felice Beato ― courtesy of Terry Bennett's book "Korea, Caught in Time"

By Robert Neff

For many people, crispy fried chicken and ice-cold beer are just as much a part of the Korean summer as are the heat and humidity. Beer is extremely popular here ― so popular that in 2022, the average Korean adult consumed 83 bottles of beer a year. Korea clearly has an affinity with beer, but it is a fairly recent one.

In August 1875, a British warship played host to a Korean magistrate and his entourage. They were guided about the ship and then the British captain had a keg of pale ale brought out and served to his guests. Apparently, they were not overwhelmed by this strange new drink as they gave "no signs of pleasure or disgust" while drinking it.

When Percival Lowell arrived in Chemulpo (modern Incheon) in late 1883, he and his companions were transported to Seoul in palanquins and a couple of jinrikishas which were very recent introductions to Korea. The Korean drivers were "perfectly innocent of the way to handle the vehicles" and dumped one of the riders into a ditch. The accident left the jinrikisha "smashed beyond the possibility of mending on the spot and [it] had to be abandoned." Fortunately, prior to leaving the port, the porters took the "precaution to lash a couple of bottles of beer [that had been brought from Japan] into each chair."

We don't know their initial impression of the beer but, considering the bitter cold temperature, it probably helped make the trek that much more bearable for those who were forced to walk.

If you are interested in old photographs of Korea, I highly recommend Terry Bennett's book, "Korea, Caught in Time."

Another early Korean encounter with beer took place in the fall of 1885 when three Englishmen stopped at a Korean inn located halfway between Jemulpo (modern Incheon) and Seoul. Naturally they drew a crowd of curious onlookers who wanted to get a view of the Westerners and also to see what these strangers were eating and drinking. The men, wanting to be friendly, shared their three quarts of German beer with the assembled crowd. Most of the Koreans "expressed their high opinion of the liquor" but one man "took but one mouthful and ejected it with an expression of extreme disgust." He was not impressed.

Within a few years, beer was sold in the handful of foreign shops in Seoul and Chemulpo. Even some of the missionaries were tempted to stray from the path of abstinence. Rev. Charles W. Power was accused by his fellow missionaries of not only having "criminal intercourse with women" but also breaking the Sabbath and drinking. Of these serious charges, he denied all but one of them ― he admitted taking two quarts of beer with him when he went fishing with some Korean friends. Power eventually left Korea but these alleged offenses would be the least of his alleged crimes that would haunt him in the United States ― a story for another time.

By the mid-1890s, alcohol could be readily purchased ― there are ads for various types of liquors and wines but sadly none of the beer brands are mentioned. We do know, however, that Japanese beer seems to have dominated the local market.

In late 1896, the Japanese merchants in Chemulpo were surprised when they received a huge order for beer. Not a couple of cases for a wedding, picnic or a birthday party but an enormous order for 30,000 bottles! Of course, there was only one customer able to order so much beer ― the palace. Many began to wonder if the beer was for the Korean court or the king's bodyguards.

While the Japanese merchants welcomed the large order and the opportunity to make a large profit, they were somewhat perplexed as to how to fulfill it. Even if all of the merchants in Seoul and Chemulpo contributed all the beer they had in stock, it would fall far short of the order, so they immediately cabled the brewery in Japan and asked that the order be fulfilled and shipped immediately on the next steamer.

On the day the steamer arrived at Chemulpo, so, too, did a Russian warship. The commander of the warship and his staff were invited to the Russian Legation where the Korean monarch expressed his sincere appreciation to the Russians for their assistance in secreting him and the crown prince out of the palace.

As a further display of his gratitude, he had the 30,000 bottles of beer sent to the warship so that the 300-man crew could "thoroughly celebrate the Russo-Corean alliance" ― each man allegedly receiving 100 bottles of beer.

Japanese beer appears to have been very popular in the years to come. According to a trade report in 1910, between the months of July and September, 2.16 million bottles of beer were exported to Korea.

There were other beers to choose from. In October 1905, Herbert E. Collbran, a very influential American businessman in Korea, married Augusta Coors. Her father was Adolph Coors and soon the Golden Brewery (Adolph Coors Company) began to sell beer in Korea. It was "the first brewery in Colorado to ship beer out of the United States" ― including a shipment of 120 barrels of beer in the fall of 1908.

Thus began Coors' long history in Korea. But that story involves a toad (Jinro) and is for another time.

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.