Warships on the Han River: Part 1

The frigate Seoul (FF952) seemingly guards the bicycle lanes and is the main feature of the Battleship Park in Mangwon-dong, August 2018. Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

Throughout the 19th century, Western-style ships were occasionally sighted around the Korean Peninsula. Sometimes they passed peacefully, a mere curiosity to their bewildered witnesses, while at other times these strange vessels fell afoul of the weather or upon treacherous unmapped reefs and were cast upon the shore. It was these latter encounters that were extremely annoying as the Joseon authorities had to be deal with the shipwrecked crews as kindly as possible and repatriate them quickly through either China or Japan. It is unfortunate Joseon was cursed with an undeserved reputation for being less-than-hospitable to shipwrecked survivors when, judging from the accounts, the survivors received far more favorable treatment here than they did in China or Japan.

There were the occasional violent interactions between foreign sailors and Korean villagers and fishermen, but these were thankfully few in number and posed no threat to the capital.

But in September 1866, things changed when two French warships sailed up the Han River and their crews were the first to catch "a glimpse of the heart of the ancient kingdom" of Korea. Their arrival was the harbinger of Byeonginyangyo ― a series of battles centered mainly on Ganghwa Island between the French and Korean militaries. The French had arrived to exact revenge for the execution of several French priests and the persecution of Korean Christians by the Joseon government.

A sketch of the French fleet during the French-Korean Conflict (Byeonginyangyo) in October 1866. The French gunboat Tardif and dispatch vessel Deroulede sailed up the Han River to the foot of Yanghwajin ― a short distance from where Battleship Park stands today. Robert Neff Collection

When the ships were first sighted off the coast near modern Incheon, the Joseon government acted with caution and merely observed. In Seoul, however, precautions were taken. The military was placed on heightened alert; increased security was given to the palace and its three gates; and the police were issued orders to maintain order and discourage unrest and banditry within and without the city walls.

In the Joseon court, senior officials urged the government to observe the "way of being kind to strangers" and persuade the unwanted guests to leave Korean waters peacefully. However, not everyone followed this advice.

In his journal, Jean Henri Zuber, a junior officer, wrote:

"On September 26, when the Deroulede and the Tardif approached the vicinity of Seoul with thundering noise, darkening the blue autumn sky with columns of black smoke, the unrest among the populace in the capital was evident. Even the Court and government were virtually panic-stricken. September 24: A senior Korean came alongside in a junk of miserable appearance; he was escorted by wretched-looking satellites in considerable numbers. We had part of the crew take up arms, placed sentinels everywhere, then brought the Mandarin and his escort on board. After some greetings he began to examine with curiosity the cannons, guns, compasses, etc. then he presented to Mr. Laguerre, acting commander, a rather poor fan along with a piece of paper covered with Chinese writing. A Chinese cook in the service of the General Staff acted as our interpreter and translated into French the meaning of the Chinese characters traced by our visitors."

The view from the frigate Seoul, February 2023. In 1866, the French warships sailed up the river to the point now occupied by Yanghwajin Bridge (seen in the distance). Robert Neff Collection

The Joseon official wanted to know why the French had arrived, the number of armed men and whether or not they needed provisions. He also made it very clear that the foreigners had to leave. Laguerre ― through the Chinese cook ― claimed that he and his crew had come in order to observe the lunar eclipse which was to occur that night. As for the number of men, he had 200 well-armed sailors and marines in addition to 12 large guns which fired with remarkable accuracy. As for provisions ― they had more than enough and did not require any from the Joseon authorities. Then, somewhat haughtily, Laguerre added they would leave when they deemed it appropriate but if the Koreans persisted in badgering them, they would spitefully remain.

The official was unimpressed. The French tried to "lighten his darkened features" by guiding him around the ship and demonstrating the vessel's "curious features" but when he finally left, there was no doubt he was unconvinced of "the purity of the [French fleet's] intentions. The lunar eclipse did not seem enough."

Despite Laguerre's insistence that provisions were not needed, the Joseon authorities sent, as a gift, a bull, chickens, salted fish, fruit and a dozen fans. In addition to the gift was a surge of Korean visitors who were intent on examining the strange vessels. According to Zuber's journal: "Even as I write there are a hundred on board, they are allowed to visit the deck but they are not allowed below."

The festive mood of discovery, however, changed quickly when the warships continued up the river and encountered a blockade of "junks tightly bound one to the other." Laguerre ordered the junks to be cleared away within an hour or he would sink them. His demand was not met and so he ordered his 30-caliber guns to fulfill his threat.

The bow of a Chamusuri patrol boat on display at Battleship Park, February 2023 Robert Neff Collection

In response, large numbers of Korean soldiers ― assembled on both banks of the river ― began firing upon the French vessels. The gunboats responded with "a hail of bullets and shells" which soon dispersed the soldiers.

The French sailed up the river to the base of the steep bluff at Yanghwajin where an immense crowd had gathered "to feast their eyes on this unprecedented spectacle: vessels moved by fire."

Soon a Joseon official arrived and asked Laguerre to refrain from firing upon the people as the "bullets had caused great misfortune." In return, he pledged the Koreans would not impede the French from their activities.

The French agreed. For about a day Laguerre had his crew survey and map the river in the Yanghwajin vicinity. Then, much to the relief of the excited population, they sailed back down the river, towards Incheon, and subsequently to Shanghai where preparations were made for a larger armed expedition that would result in a great loss of men on both sides, the looting and plundering of Ganghwa Island. The French forces were defeated but the incident awakened the Joseon government to the need for strengthening and modernizing its own navy if was to have any chance of fending off foreign intrusions and maintaining its self-imposed isolation.

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.