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| People gather for the 43rd Fleischfest on the U.S. diplomatic housing compound in central Seoul's Yongsan, April 29. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar |
By Jon Dunbar
The U.S. Embassy housing compound, usually a calm, peaceful place in the corner of U.S. Army Garrison Yongsan, was overrun by a bunch of "jabronis" one Saturday afternoon last month.
On April 29, about 600 people of all ages gathered at white tents set up on a lawn, where heaps of smoked meats were being served for the 43rd biannual Fleischfest, a feast of smoked meats prepared by dozens of volunteer Fleischmeisters. The band Jabroni and Friends played two sets of classic rock during the afternoon, the first time any of the participants could remember the event featuring live music.
"Fleischfest is a group effort," said Sean Lindstone, a Foreign Service officer who has been involved in the Fleischfest off and on since the autumn of 2012. "We share responsibilities among 30 to 40 volunteers throughout the week for everything from designing T-shirts, chopping firewood and purchasing supplies to prepping the meat and managing two smokers and one pit over two full days of cooking."
Their core offerings have traditionally been brisket, pulled pork and St. Louis-style ribs, but there may be changes based on who's in the country and what skills they bring. This year they also offered a whole hog, grilled pork belly and smoked chicken. Merchandise including shirts and cups were for sale, bearing slogans such as the Doctor Seuss-themed "Oh, the Meats You'll Smoke!" and the Simpsons-inspired "You Don't Win Friends with Salad." A lot of work was put into every aspect of the party, from the entertainment and the food to the creativity in the party theme.
"As our community members often rotate among domestic and overseas assignments through their diplomatic and military careers, we rely on the more experienced Fleischmeisters' help to mentor new arrivals on how to trim ribs and brisket, build a hog pit, run an overnight smoke schedule, and deliver the quality taste of a traditional American BBQ to our entire community and Korean guests," Lindstone said. "If someone has a great idea or desire, we often ask that person to take the lead in the cooking of that item… It really depends on our volunteers, who donate their time and money to pull off this special event."
Also on hand were five participating vendors serving drinks, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic ― On a Lark Sodas, Gorilla Brewery, Playground Brewing, Jeju Beer Company and Blue Whale Brewhouse. The event was additionally sponsored by the U.S. Embassy Association and Second Hand Rose Thrift Shop.
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| Jabroni and Friends perform at the 43rd Fleischfest on the U.S. diplomatic housing compound in central Seoul's Yongsan, April 29. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar |
Fleischest began in 2003, and in its heyday, its events previously attracted as many as 2,000 people, who came by for lunch as well as dinner. But the crowds have been shrinking in line with the relocation of the military community down to USAG Humphreys in Pyeongtaek, Gyeonggi Province.
Yongsan Garrison is pretty quiet these days. A fence running north to south divides Yongsan's South Post in two. The land on the west side of this fence has been handed back to Korea, and a portion of it was opened as Yongsan Children's Park, May 4, days after the Fleischfest.
But on the other side of that fence, a thinned garrison community is still present. Dragon Hill Lodge is still open, and a bus service still runs between what other facilities remain active on the garrison which once covered about 2.5 square kilometers.
It may come as a surprise to many civilians who don't get to see behind those walls that such a community still exists, but there are currently no confirmed plans to relocate the embassy compound.
For years there has been talk of relocating the U.S. Embassy from Gwanghwamun to Camp Coiner, a closed military installation located at the northern end of Yongsan Main Post, and when that happens the embassy personnel may move too.
But in the meantime, Lindstone said initial discussions have already begun for Fleischfest 44 in the fall.
"It's great right now because we have the space in our current housing area to host events like this," he said, "but I'm sure the Fleischfest will live on in some form once we move to a new location."
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