[Temple Adventures] The tale of love and dragon magic behind Buseok Temple's creation

Uisang-daesa and Lady Seonmyo, seen in art at Naksan Temple in Gangwon Province / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

By Dale Quarrington

It's often said that the more things change, the more they stay the same; that is, except for Buseok Temple.

When I first visited Buseok Temple back in the summer of 2011, the temple parking lot was just to the east of the temple grounds. So when I returned this past summer, I was in for a bit of a surprise.

Recently, Buseok Temple decided to return the temple grounds to their original state by re-adding the Iljumun (One Pillar Gate) and Cheonwangmun (Heavenly Kings Gate). So instead of a simple little side-entry from the eastern parking lot, Buseok Temple's layout is now designed so that visitors have to make their way up a 500-meter-long pathway on the side of a mountain. I'm all for a good hike, but with the temperature rising to 35 degrees Celsius and with my energetic five-year-old daughter at my side, the new temple layout made for quite the adventure.

Buseok Temple is located in the rather remote Yeongju, North Gyeongsang Province. The temple was first established in the year 676 by the famed monk, Uisang-daesa (625-702). Buseok Temple was built under the royal decree of King Munmu of Silla (r. 661-681) to help promote the ideas of Hwaeom (Flower Garland) school of Buddhism. It was also built during a tumultuous time in Korean history, when Silla had just defeated the neighboring Baekje (18 B.C. ― 660 A.D.) and Goguryeo (37 B.C. ― 668 A.D.) kingdoms. The temple was built near a strategic pass, which was the former boundary between Goguryeo and Silla. By building Buseok Temple, it would help to secure the nation's new borders.

Lady Seonmyo / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

There is a legend about the founding of Buseok Temple, and the tragic love story of Uisang-daesa. While he was in Tang China studying, he met a woman that he knew as Lady Seonmyo (Virtuous Mystery). When he returned to Korea and left her behind, Lady Seonmyo, being either distraught or trying to catch his boat, jumped into the sea and drowned. After her death, she was reborn as a dragon. As a dragon, Lady Seonmyo was said to have followed Uisang-daesa back to Silla to help protect him.

Lady Seonmyo / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

When Uisang-daesa's construction of Buseok Temple met resistance with locals who were followers of traditional Korean shamanic beliefs, Lady Seonmyo, now appearing as a dragon, levitated a large rock over the heads of the locals three times. The crowd was humbled by the miraculous powers of Lady Seonmyo. Now, purportedly, this rock rests to the left of the main hall, Muryangsujeon (Hall of Immeasurable Life). And this is where the temple gets its name, which translates to "Floating Rock Temple."

The "floating rock" is still seen at Buseok Temple which is said to have been levitated three times by Lady Seonmyo as a dragon / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

Making your way through the temple grounds at Buseok Temple, you'll first pass through both the newly constructed Iljumun and Cheonwangmun. Finally, you'll pass through the Hoejeonmun (Entry Gate), which will gain you admittance to the main temple courtyard. What will strike you most about Buseok Temple is the terraced hillside where the temple is located. In total, there are three of these stone platforms that house temple structures at Buseok Temple.

Beomjonggak at Buseok Temple / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

According to "The Secret Spirit of Korean Architecture" by Bongryol Kim, there are two main theories as to the symbolic meaning behind the stone platform design at Buseok Temple. The theory that makes the most sense is that the three platforms are meant to represent the "Nine Levels of Paradise in the Pure Land." Of these three stone platforms, they can be subdivided into three corresponding clusters found at the Hoejeonmun, Beomjonggak (Bell Pavilion), and Anyangnu (Peace Bright Pavilion).

Anyangnu at Buseok Temple / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

Each of these three areas have three corresponding inclines. Of these nine total inclines, which relate to the nine total levels in the Pure Land where one can be reborn, it culminates in the ninth level which is the highest level of paradise. And it just so happens that the ninth incline at Buseok Temple is where you'll find Muryangsujeon.

Muryangsujeon at Buseok Temple / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

The present Muryangsujeon dates back to 1376, which makes it one of Korea's oldest extant wooden structures. In addition to its age, the temple shrine hall is also National Treasure No. 18. Unlike so many other wooden structures on the Korean Peninsula, Muryangsujeon avoided destruction during the devastating 1592-98 Imjin War. The hall is smaller in size, and it's typical of Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) architecture.

Stone lantern and Muryangsujeon at Buseok Temple / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

When you first enter the courtyard that houses Muryangsujeon through Anyangnu, you'll notice a stone lantern slightly to the left with the main hall as a backdrop. This stone lantern is National Treasure No. 17, and there's a reason why it's located slightly off-center. Its position forces visitors to the right and to the east. Housed inside Muryangsujeon is a statue of Amita-bul (the Buddha of the Western Paradise), which is National Treasure No. 45. But instead of being centrally located inside the main hall like at most other Korean Buddhist temples, this statue of Amita-bul is located to the west (or left of center). The reason for this is highly symbolic. Because visitors enter both Muryangsujeon and its courtyard from the east, and Amita-bul is located to the west, Muryangsujeon is meant to symbolize paradise. And the statue of Amita-bul in the west looks out over the world of suffering to the east.

To the rear of Muryangsujeon, you'll find Seonmyogak, which is an expanded shrine hall dedicated to Lady Seonmyo. The interior and exterior of this temple shrine hall are a tribute to this protective guardian. According to another temple legend, after Lady Seonmyo the dragon died, her bones were buried beneath Muryangsujeon.

There are several other beautiful temple shrine halls at Buseok Temple, like Josadang (Founder's Hall). Josadang is located past the Three-Story Stone Pagoda east of Muryangsujeon and up a forested trail. This smaller shrine hall is almost as old as Muryangsujeon, and it's dedicated to Uisang-daesa. Josadang is National Treasure No. 19, and it was first built in 1377.

In total, Buseok Temple is home to an amazing range of National Treasures.

Dale Quarrington has visited over 500 temples throughout the Korean Peninsula and published three?books on Korean Buddhism. He runs the popular website, "Dale's Korean Temple Adventures."