[Joseon Images] Hunting for treasure in Korea

Michael Phares shows off two of his discoveries in 2019. / Courtesy of Michael Phares

By Robert Neff

Everywhere you go in Korea there are historical relics and remnants of the past. Many of them are displayed prominently and well-documented ― old palaces, temples and pagodas ― while others are hidden away in museums and archives, but there still are more artifacts waiting to be discovered. Even in Seoul, a bustling and ever-changing city, new historical discoveries are constantly being made by archaeologists.

However, archaeologists are not the only ones out there searching for the past. Many enthusiastic hobbyists, armed with metal detectors, scour the wilderness and beaches for relics of the past. One of these hobbyists is Michael T. Phares.

Phares collects coins ― one of the oldest hobbies in the world ― and has an impressive collection of Korean coins and banknotes, and even some early stamps. It was his interest in Korean numismatics that inspired his wife to buy him a powerful metal detector for Christmas in 2015 so that he could begin "searching old?gogae?(mountain passes) for old Joseon and Korean Empire coins." Prior to his return to the United States last year, he ― along with his children ― spent much of his free time combing the countryside looking for coins.

Michael Phares goes metal detecting along a path in South Korea. / Courtesy of Michael Phares

There are definitely coins out there. It is said that in the late 19th century, people sometimes used to protect their hoard of coins by burying it in the ground and then, in the winter, pouring water upon it so that the coins became a giant mass of ice ― a rather effective way of preventing theft.

Phares apparently has not found one of these hoards, but, judging from his Facebook postings, he has collected a large number of coins and other interesting artifacts. In an email interview with The Korea Times, Phares described some of his adventures in metal detecting.

One fon coin (1892) found at Namyangju in 2019. / Courtesy of Michael Phares

Last year, after a typhoon passed over the peninsula, he and his sons went out and explored their local beach. For their efforts they found a large number of spoons and some modern coins ― rather mundane but his sons seemed to enjoy the adventure. However, other days' discoveries were highlighted with Joseon and Korean Empire coins, musket balls from the 19th century and shell casings and trinkets from the Korean War.

Phares cautions foreign metal detecting enthusiasts to "know the Korean laws on metal detecting very well and know where [they] can and can't go." As for items discovered, "any item with cultural or significant monetary value must be reported to the ministry of culture. Joseon dynasty or Korean Empire coins and other old coins are not considered as such, but a golden crown or iron sword very much does."

He also warned that gold, platinum, silver and other precious metal jewelry must be turned into the police so that the authorities can "attempt" to find the rightful owner. If the rightful owner cannot be found then the item is returned to the finder (taxes must be paid on the object).

A string of Korean coins / Courtesy of Michael Phares

He suggests beaches and sandy playgrounds as good locations to search for coins. But for the older coins (and perhaps more interesting stuff), mountain trails and valleys are ideal locations. However, he cautions, be prepared "to answer a lot of questions from curious Korean hikers."

Surprisingly, out of all the objects Phares has found in Korea, two of his favorite items are American wheat pennies from the 1930s and 1940s. During the Korean War, according to Phares, some American soldiers "brought lucky coins with them" ― unfortunately, not all of them were lucky. Phares found his two pennies in an old foxhole that he believes was used by an American soldier with Task Force Smith ― the first American ground unit to engage in combat during the Korean War. The discovery of the coins was extremely emotional for Phares:

"I found them in a foxhole likely defended by a [Task Force Smith soldier] armed with an M1 Carbine when the North Koreans charged up the hill." What became of the soldier is unclear but Phares recalled, "the find immediately floored me emotionally and I cried."

The two wheat pennies believed to be from a member of Task Force Smith / Courtesy of Michael Phares

There are other remnants of the Korean War that he has discovered which are even more valuable. While metal detecting on a mountaintop near Namyangju, he discovered the remains of a United Nations KIA/MIA (killed in action/missing in action) soldier in his foxhole. Judging from the sheer number of bullets and bullet casings, as well as the mortar shells and shrapnel, it was clear the site had not been surveyed yet. Phares contacted the authorities and within the week the remains of the missing soldier were recovered. In addition, he later learned that on the next mountaintop five United Nations and nine People's Republic of China soldiers' remains were also recovered.

"There is no feeling like bringing someone's grandpa home ― friendly or enemy. It was the most fulfilling experience," Phares declared.

Of course, metal detecting at old battle sites can also be dangerous. "I've come across more live munitions and ammunition than we can count. Mortars, artillery shells, grenades, antitank and anti-personnel mines, the whole lot." If his metal detector indicated a "big target" he generally left it alone. Any live ammunition or ordinance should not be disturbed and be reported promptly to the proper authorities.

Other than battlefield burials, most grave sites are pretty obvious and avoided. Sometimes, however, he discovered coins in overgrown areas that turned out to be neglected or forgotten graves. "Once I realize that there is a grave there, I put the coin on top of it. I don't play with graves. It's spooky and a HUGE no-no."

Some of the places in Korea where he would like to metal detect are: "Any old mountain pass in North Korea; the place is untouched and full of things to find." Heartbreak Ridge, where one of his relatives died in August 1951 ― "I would love a day or two up there to see if I could find relics from the fight so I could show my children."

Another place he would like to explore with his metal detector is Namhansanseong. "This would never, ever happen as it's protected but it would be awesome to be given the chance even if just to donate the finds to the museum."

Oliver Phares, 11, goes metal detecting near Namyangju in 2019. / Courtesy of Michael Phares

Phares and his family now live in the United States but they still continue to hunt for old coins and lost treasures with their metal detectors. When asked what the most valuable object he has found is, his answer is unsurprising: "I value my sons' reaction finding an old coin over me finding a gold ring."