[RAS Korea] Ganghwa Island: Cultural heritage spot, defender of Seoul

Henri Zuber's illustration of Ganghwa Island during the French 1866 invasion, showing French cannons aimed at a Korean village and fortress wall / Courtesy of Brother Anthony of Taize

By Steven L. Shields

Northwest of Seoul, Ganghwa Island occupies a strategic place in the Han River estuary. For centuries, the island has been a haven for the royals of both the Goryeo and Joseon kingdoms, to which they would retreat in times of war. A Goryeo palace was built in the 1200s, where the king lived in self-exile for several decades. In modern times, Ganghwa Island has been an idyllic, country getaway for city dwellers and a pastoral bread basket for the local farmers.

Ganghwa offers the weekend traveler a host of historic and scenic sites. Habitation of the island began millennia ago, as attested by the dolmen (ancient stone structures). Archaeologists continue to debate the purpose of these dolmen ― do they mark burials, were they used for sky burials, or were they altars for worship? At Mount Mani, an altar is said to have been used for ancestral worship by Korea's legendary founder Dangun.

Historic and picturesque Buddhist temples dot the island, as do early 20th-century Anglican church buildings. Two of these buildings, built to house the large population of believers there, are more than 100 years old. The cathedral-like Ganghwa church, high on a hill above the town, is a spectacular example of religious architecture and is still used for regular worship. The bell is located not in a tower but in a pavilion outside. This Korean-style bell calls the faithful to worship. Among the temples, Cheondeung Temple is a must-see.

Ganghwa Church blends Christianity and traditional Korean architecture. / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields

During the 1392-1910 Joseon era, Ganghwa Island was fortified and became the first line of defense against invasions from the sea. As the Han River was navigable by most ships of the era, protecting that waterway was of utmost importance. The military garrison on the island suffered attacks from the Japanese, the Americans and the French in the late 1860s.

Henri Zuber's illustration of the 1866 French invasion of Ganghwa Island / Courtesy of Brother Anthony of Taize

The French invasion of Ganghwa was in retaliation to the execution of several French Catholic priests who had entered Joseon illegally to conduct missionary work. At the time, the infamous Daewongun of Korea had tried to keep the kingdom closed from all outside contact. His defense of the policy was ferocious.

Henri Zuber's illustration of French troops marching on Ganghwa Island during the 1866 invasion. / Courtesy of Brother Anthony of Taize

When the French sailed into the Han River estuary in 1866, a 25-year-old midshipman, Jean Henri Zuber, was on one of the ships. Zuber, a prolific writer and artist, kept a detailed account of the expedition and drew a series of illustrations published in France the following year. His depictions of Korean life and scenes of the island were turned into engravings that are as exquisite in their detail as any photograph could be. He later became a professional artist. His day-by-day account of the invasion and the battles that were fought is descriptive and detailed. Zuber's record, previously unpublished in either French or English, was translated into English by Br. Anthony of Taize (president emeritus of RAS Korea), and was published in RAS Korea's 2015 issue of Transactions (vol. 90, pp. 71-94). The journal can be freely accessed at raskb.com. Historical treasures, including important government records, were carried off by the French and remain a much-debated diplomatic issue today.

Henri Zuber's illustration of a town on Ganghwa Island during the French 1866 invasion / Courtesy of Brother Anthony of Taize

Five years after the French invasion, the Americans showed up with warships. Due to an unfortunate miscommunication and misunderstanding, the Americans attacked several fortified outposts and finally the main fortress of the island. A short few-days-long battle and a month-long occupation of the island by the Americans resulted in the destruction of five Korean fortresses and the deaths of almost 300 Korean defenders, including General Eo Jae-yon, commander of the island's defense. His flag was taken by the Americans and was only recently returned to Korea due mainly to Thomas Duvernay, a long-time resident of Korea and a leading expert on the Americans' 1871 invasion.

Ganghwa Fortress today / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields

Duvernay, a professor of Korean history and English at Yeungnam University in Gyeongsan, North Gyeongsan Province, Korea, recently published "Sinmiyangyo: The 1871 Conflict Between the United States and Korea,"?which is available in print or eBook formats on Amazon and several other platforms.?He will be lecturing to the RAS Korea on May 25 at 7:30 p.m., commemorating the 150th anniversary of the Ganghwa event. Visit raskb.com for details on how to join the online lecture.

Steven L. Shields, a retired cleric, is president of the Royal Asiatic Society Korea (www.raskb.com) and is a columnist for The Korea Times. Visit raskb.com or email royalasiatickorea@gmail.com for more information about the society.