KOTE dispute underlies struggle for Insa-dong's soul

A view of the courtyard garden at KOTE in downtown Seoul's historic Insa-dong, Jan. 8. A construction fence, since removed, is visible on the right. / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

By Jon Dunbar

A tense real estate conflict in Insa-dong seems to have settled into an impasse, as two stakeholders in a multipurpose compound near the southern end of the main alley remain at odds over the future of three buildings, together known as KOTE.

With the opening of K-Sports Factory Outlet, a clearance store dealing heavily discounted outdoor wear, it appears the building's main tenant, surnamed Choi, is settling into a coexistence with Ahn Ju-young (Julie, head of July Partners), his estranged business partner. Ahn has outstanding contracts for use of KOTE facilities, as well as leases with her own tenants. She has been operating and renting out KOTE's various studio, exhibition, performance and co-working spaces to artists and various other entities, and a few cafes and a wine bar have also been operating in the buildings.

Ahn Ju-young (Julie) sits at her desk in KOTE Lab, located in downtown Seoul's historic Insa-dong neighborhood, Jan. 8. / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Choi and Ahn's business relationship turned from estranged to outright hostile last November, when workers began to prematurely demolish KOTE Annex, the smallest of the three buildings consisting of two levels. Ahn, who had not approved of the demolition, rushed back into the building to halt it, and workers chased after her spraying water from high-pressure hoses, which was captured in a video that went viral.

"The case of KOTE Annex is that the owner ordered the demolition of his own building and just went ahead even though the sub-lessee pleaded [with him not to]," Ahn told The Korea Times. "They ignored the process of getting consent from me which was clearly stated in a court ruling this year."

That incident incited a months-long sit-in protest, after Ahn occupied the buildings to stave off further demolition work. She was joined by several supporters, both Korean and foreign, who had come to know KOTE over the years and had used its facilities. Many were artists, photographers and filmmakers, and they had the tools to document what was happening, to be used later as evidence, or for their own artistic projects.

A night during the sit-in protest at KOTE, features a jazz band performing, center left, and hired workers monitoring the situation, right, Nov. 12. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

One foreign participant in the sit-in, who wished to be identified only as "N," told The Korea Times: "The goons didn't know what to do with us because we didn't respond the same way as Koreans typically would. We didn't scare that easily and weren't intimidated."

Choi reportedly intended to convert KOTE Annex into a parking lot, and was quoted in other media expressing interest in making as much profit as possible before his 10-year lease was up. But Ahn, who has an agreement with Choi to operate the space, insisted on the unique role KOTE plays in the local community, as a platform for various artists and other creative people.

They took their dispute to court in multiple lawsuits, but while they waited the sit-in protest continued until January. Tents, heating pads, sleeping bags and hammocks were set up, and the wall that had been torn down during demolition was eventually covered with plastic to keep the cold out.

Jongno District Office has been unable to intervene, as this was a dispute between two tenants on private property. Additionally, the buildings' actual owner, former Sangji University President Kim Moon-ki, passed away in December, and his heirs have yet to decide what to do with the property. Ahn described this situation as adding more to "a lot of moving pieces."

Choi hired contract workers to encourage Ahn to vacate, so Ahn hired her own "goons" to help keep watch over the property. Sometimes they all slept in the same room. Since the water incident last November, there have been various accusations from each side, as well as verbal attacks, some reports of property damage and continued physical occupation or blockading of spaces. Ahn accused workers employed by Choi of confining and assaulting her, and the workers countered by filing a complaint against Ahn, claiming she had injured them.

In another memorable incident, Ahn and the artists organized an exhibition about their protest in the gallery on the ground floor, only for workers to drive two vans inside and leave them parked in the middle of the exhibition space, all of which was caught on CCTV. Undeterred, the artists covered the vehicles in sheets and the exhibition continued with the vehicles presented as an unintended art display.

A view of the exhibition at KOTE, titled "Flowers blossom at every border," proceeds with a van parked inside the gallery space, which has been covered with a sheet. / Courtesy of KOTE

N described one extreme incident, in which a man he identified as a "well-known protest buster" pretended that he was going to hang himself from the beams in the ceiling of the second floor of the annex, which resulted in paramedics arriving in response to a report of a "murder" taking place.

"It really reminded me of some underground performance art event," N said. "We all had cameras and phones and videos going constantly ― making it impossible to get away this kind of behavior."

A person looks out on Nov. 19 last year from a hole torn in the side of KOTE Annex by demolition a week earlier. / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Ultimately, the court seems to be siding with Ahn, releasing three rulings favorable to her side, while dismissing two of Choi's lawsuits. The court ruled that Choi should not interfere with Ahn's business. Another ruling dismissed Choi's claim for the right to demolish the annex building on the grounds that it was built illegally in the 1960s.

Taking the court rulings as a victory, Ahn ended the sit-in and had the annex repaired.

"Now that it's over and the annex has been restored, a few of us really miss sleeping there," N said. "Julie says there is a special energy to the place. I don't know about that, but I did have some of the best sleep there. Maybe it was the cold, fresh air that blew through the smashed windows and walls."

But then in February a new conflict was sparked when workers started bringing boxes into the ground-floor gallery, depriving Ahn of use of the space. Ahn blocked them at the entranceway, slowing them down, and while police made several visits, they could only intervene in actual assaults.

Ahn Ju-young stands in the doorway of KOTE's main-floor gallery space, blocking the delivery of boxes, Feb. 25. / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

"Choi is still ignoring the court ruling," Ahn said. "It is quite frustrating that the fist is closer than the law."

Choi then converted the first-floor gallery and adjoining cafe into the factory outlet store, while Ahn remained on the second floor in the same building, housing the KOTE Lab co-working space, another cafe and a library, as well as controlling an expansive third-floor gallery space. In addition to this, Ahn also controls Joseon Salon wine bar, located on the ground floor of the compound's Haebong Building. An outdoor garden between the buildings has become a no-man's land.

Ahn said the contrast visible between the spaces she and Choi occupy shows the huge difference in what they are seeking, as he pursues a quick profit while she seeks a cultural space welcoming all.

"We can find a balance between art and business," she said, adding that she has tried her hardest to find common ground and reach a compromise. "Our theme is 'borderless' ― two different areas meet and then we are not putting up walls. Instead, flowers bloom, different areas meet and we find solutions."

The complex itself has a rich history, as is typical for what remains of the surrounding neighborhood. During the Japanese occupation, it housed the Hohae Yeogwan, an inn where independence activists stayed, as well as the site of the Joseon Theater. It is also at the end of Pimatgol, a culturally rich alley that has been mostly uprooted as part of an unrelated redevelopment project south of the property.

"If the building is gone, we are losing that history too," Ahn said.

She said the future for KOTE is uncertain, but she quoted South African artist William Kentridge: "Art must defend the uncertain."

"Cultural events are still held regularly. The idea is to just use it all the way into the ground. Until it's over," N said.

"KOTE sits at the hub of Seoul. Its history and culture have existed for over 100 years as a place where artists and intellectuals of all stripes have gathered together ― and continue to gather together. Unlike many other cultural institutions that have been initiated in Seoul, KOTE is already established. KOTE has the infrastructure of facilities, buildings and people to make it a leading example for the future of the arts industry in Seoul and Korea at large."

A large sign advertises the grand opening of the K-Sports Factory Outlet, located at the southern end of Insadong-gil in downtown Seoul, May 14. / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Choi did not answer multiple requests for comment.

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