[INTERVIEW] 'Yeongyeongdang': a hidden gem to savor traditional Korean desserts

A set of Korean traditional desserts offered in 'Yeongyeongdang' in central Seoul. Courtesy of Jung Yeon-gyeong

24-year-old CEO invites people to world of Korean traditional desserts

By Dong Sun-hwa

Tucked inside a low-rise building in Samcheong-dong in central Seoul, "Yeongyeongdang" is a tiny yet cozy dessert house that serves traditional Korean desserts and confections of all kinds. It only has eight seats, so those itching to get a taste of traditional desserts with a modern twist will need to reserve online ahead of time.

Once visitors set foot inside "Yeongyeongdang," they will be welcomed by its 24-year-old owner, Jung Yeon-gyeong. The dessert house was named after her, but it also refers to Yeongyeongdang Hall in the rear garden of Changdeokgung Palace, a royal palace in Seoul built in the 15th century during the 1392-1910 Joseon Dynasty. The hall was a symbol of auspiciousness.

"Yeongyeongdang" has been striving to live up to its name since its launch in 2020. By offering its customers a variety of mouth-watering and visually-pleasing desserts, the young CEO hopes to spread happiness through food. During the winter, she is likely to recommend trying "kumquat jungkwa (fruits preserved in honey)" and "walnut gangjeong (snacks made of glutinous rice flour)" as well as the teas that complement well with them.

Prior to becoming an heir to the Korean tradition, Jung dreamed of becoming a baker. So, she went to culinary school, but soon faced an inconvenient truth: The process of baking requires a lot of sugar to boost flavor and stimulate chemical reactions.

'Yeongyeongdang' CEO Jung Yeon-gyeong / Courtesy of Jung Yeon-gyeong

"I was shocked to discover how much sugar was added to a baked good that was not even sweet," Jung told The Korea Times during a recent interview at the restaurant. "After learning how unhealthy it is, even I wasn't interested in trying it at all. I also could not give it to anyone else, especially my grandparents who had been suffering from diabetes. From then on, I lost my interest in baking and began looking for more wholesome food options, ending up opening a shop selling Korean traditional desserts."

Traditional Korean desserts can be prepared with less sugar while still delighting taste buds, according to Jung.

"We mostly give sweetness using fruits," she stressed. "In the case of jungkwa, its focus is on the fruits themselves. We try to preserve their unique flavors and smells as much as possible so that people can savor them in their original forms. We also offer jungkwa made of ginseng, hoping people can enjoy this healthy ingredient without finding it too bitter. If we must use a sweetener, we add grain syrup made by a well-known master, which is healthier than sugar."

"Yeongyeongdang" offers different desserts and confections depending on the season. It uses fresh seasonal ingredients to cook six to seven desserts in a set, serving them with a cup of hot tea. Jung values balance and harmony most in a set.

'Yeongyeongdang' is located in Samcheong-dong, central Seoul. Courtesy of Jung Yeon-gyeong

"For instance, we serve gangjeong along with citron danji (a citron filled with various ingredients like jujubes and pomegranates) to combine nutty and fresh flavors. In this way, different desserts can complement each other's flavors and strike a good balance."

As well as fusing the traditional and the contemporary, Jung's recipes merge East and West. "Black sesame tarak-juk" (a porridge made with milk and rice) most clearly illustrates this characteristic.

"I put black sesame into tarak-juk to reduce the milk's fishy taste," she explained. "Since milk is sweet, I also add a Korean-style tuile (baked wafer) made of cheese to my porridge, making it saltier. I always love experimenting and attempting to create new recipes based on my own experience. 'Yeongyeongdang' currently has three employees and three part-timers, who taste my desserts before their official release. They are pretty objective and honest, so their comments have helped me a lot."

Being a young CEO, Jung often encounters people who think she is unseasoned and unqualified.

"Some customers think I am unverified, just because I don't look old enough," Jung said with a smile. "When they visit our shop, they ask me where my CEO is. We also offer some classes to teach people how to make Korean desserts, but some of them choose not to take it after calling me and hearing my young voice."

A set of Korean traditional desserts offered at 'Yeongyeongdang' in central Seoul. Courtesy of Jung Yeon-gyeong

For someone like Jung, who has a self-assured and strong mentality, this is no big deal.

"I can see why they are doubtful," she said. "It is quite rare to see a young woman committing herself to something traditional."

She understands that the traditional path she has chosen is seen as unusual, but she believes that her age is not a limitation and she is encouraged by the support she has received from those around her.

This spring, Jung plans to showcase a new item to win the hearts of the younger generation.

"We will release 'mandukwa,' a dumpling-like 'yakgwa' (a wheat-based confection made with honey and ginger juice, among others)," Jung said. "As far as I know, there is only one shop in Korea that sells it. I am considering adding chocolate or green tea powder to 'mandukwa,' so that it can be appealing to youngsters who love retro-flavored products."

The CEO has two big ambitions for the future.

"I first want to expand my shop and invite more customers," she said. "I also want to further promote Korean traditional desserts, letting more Koreans and foreigners recognize them. As of now, even Koreans struggle to name our traditional desserts. I hope I can play a role in resolving this issue."