Cities of light: winter escape to Poland

Residents and tourists shop at Wroclaw Christmas Market on Saint Nicholas Day, Dec. 6. Korea Times photo by Lee Suh-yoon

The best urban illuminations are found at sub-zero temperatures

By Lee Suh-yoon

POLAND ― Wet, freezing and mostly dark, winter in Poland poses challenging conditions for travelers. The sun sets around 3:30 p.m., after which layers of clothes provide little defense from the stinging cold.

Yet winter is the best time to enjoy urban illuminations in Polish cities. Whole squares and streets are decked with Christmas lights from early December. But the cold is a distant worry once you step under the lights and join the buoyant crowds with a mug of mulled beer.

Christmas, neon lights in Wroclaw

The best place to soak in these festive lights is Wroclaw Christmas Market, which spans across two main squares and streets in the Old Town. On Saint Nicholas Day, Dec. 6, a stage event is held to light up a huge Christmas tree at the center of the Market Square.

The Old Town Christmas market is not the only place where you can find impressive illuminations. An economic hub rebuilt from the ruins of World War II, Wroclaw's urban landscape is full of surprises which can be described as "a city of contrasts," as Wojciech Zalewski, a local guide, likes to call it. Large Gothic churches, a former Soviet milk bar, a postmodernist department store scorned by locals and a neo-baroque hotel that built a special balcony for Hitler's visit (though he never came) can all be found along a 250-meter section of Swidnicka Street, just south of the Old Town.

Outdoor murals and neon signs at Municipal Gallery Workshop, Wroclaw, Dec. 6 Korea Times photo by Lee Suh-yoon

The city's lively art scene turns this eclectic landscape into creative canvases that are best appreciated in the long evening hours. A short walk from the Old Town squares past trendy restaurants and cafes, and you can get a peek at the neon-charged outdoor murals of the Municipal Gallery Workshop. The foot excursions can also be coupled with some gnome-hunting. The city has 165 bronze statuettes of cheeky gnomes lurking around corners and shop fronts.

Subculture, ice sculptures in Poznan

Small electronic music DJ booths and bars line an alley at Poznan's Old Town, Dec. 7. Korea Times photo by Lee Suh-yoon

Poznan is similar to Wroclaw in its vibrant art scene, taking inspiration from nearby Berlin. It is, however, more affordable and relaxed ― not a surprise considering one in five residents is a university student. The young crowd fuels a growing alternative music scene. Students paint and hold band rehearsals in rented ateliers inside the 100-year-old Imperial Castle, also a former math university where three students broke the German Enigma code.

"There is a big subculture scene," says Szymon Echaust, 28, drummer for Profeci, a local black metal band. "We have small 20-people gigs happening all around the city."

Echaust, a guide with Urban Adventures Poznan, recommends Pawilon, a small concert hall at the Old Town, for first-timers who want to experience the city's alternative music scene and nightlife.

A contestant from Malaysia puts the finishing touches on his ice sculpture at Poznan Ice Festival in Poznan Old Town, Dec. 8. Korea Times photo by Lee Suh-yoon

Like the underground music scene, the Christmas Market at Poznan's Old Market Square stands apart from other markets thanks to its annual ice sculpting festival. On the first day of the event, you can see contestants from around the world in action, chipping and sawing away at towering opaque blocks. By nightfall, the finished sculptures shine clear as glass, set ablaze by the surrounding lights. Slip inside the Brovaria beer hall after the competition and warm up with some of the best brewed beer in town.

Sunsets & caves in Krakow

Night falls at Wawel Royal Castle, Krakow, Dec. 5 Korea Times photo by Lee Suh-yoon

Rose, gold, mint and violet pastel tones dominate the city of Krakow, probably the only city in Poland that might struggle with overtourism in the summer. Unlike other cities that were destroyed by World War II, Krakow's monuments and buildings remain largely intact because the Nazis used the city as their headquarters during the occupation of Poland.

A barbecue stall at the Christmas Market in the main square of Krakow's Old Town, Dec. 5 Korea Times photo by Lee Suh-yoon

The best views of this well-preserved city are from Wawel Royal Castle, balanced atop a hill in central Krakow. Be sure to get there just before sunset. The sky and castle walls are infused with their best colors at around 4 p.m.

Krakow was known as the cultural capital of Poland, partly due to an active patronage of the arts by a wealthy and entrepreneurial Jewish community. Kazimierz, the old Jewish quarter, comes alive after dark with trendy bars, clubs and late-night food trucks.

A guide shines his flashlight into a white salt deposit in the wall at Wieliczka Salt Mine, Dec. 5. Korea Times photo by Lee Suh-yoon

A trip to Krakow is not complete without a half-day excursion to Wieliczka Salt Mine, a 327-meter-deep UNESCO World Heritage site just outside the city. Qualified guides show visitors around the first three levels of this mine ― a depth of 64 to 135 meters below the surface. Religious altars, statues and even entire chapels are carved out of grey salt rock. The soft glow in the dimly lit salt rock chambers is nothing less than surreal.

Winter Wonderland in Warsaw

Christmas lights shine at the Museum of King Jan III's Palace's garden in Wilanow, Warsaw, Dec. 3. Korea Times photo by Lee Suh-yoon

The gardens of Wilanow Palace, located on the southern outskirts of Warsaw, get a magical makeover in winter. Trees, fountains and tunnels are wrapped lavishly in colorful LED lights. It is a popular site for Polish children, who visit with their families or classmates. The lower section of the garden containing the main fountain puts on a mesmerizing light show with color-coded sections flickering in tune to classical music.

Travel tips

Polish national carrier, LOT Polish Airlines, operates five weekly flights between Incheon International Airport and Warsaw's Frederic Chopin Airport. For long-distance travel between cities, trains are safe and comfortable with scenic views during the day. Just be prepared for sudden delays.